Time I pulled my finger out

[Althulas]

Started the overhaul on mine and quite a daunting task it’s going to be looking at all the work that is needed and was quite disheartening to be honest but other builds on here are inspiring.

I’ve made a start on the rear. Rear boxes off, the dreaded 8mm cap heads loosened off with no drama probably all the wd40 soaks have helped. Everything loosened off ready for the rear beam drop. Hit a hiccup with the rear hub removal as one of the puller legs broke so that’s going back to Amazon and looking at an alternative. As I packed up for the day I realised I’m going to have to remove the Center of the exhaust to change the hand brake cable. Good excuse to change the prop shaft bearing carrier and gubbo while I’m at it.

Must say the Makita impact wrench has made the job a lot easier. Hub nuts spun off without a sweat.

I think with what I want to do I don’t think I’ll have it back on the road for about three months. But I’ll think I’ll get the rear beam, trailing arms and maybe hubs blasted to reduce some of the prep time.

 

[andyglym]

Great stuff. Any pics?

 

[Althulas]

Nothing to exciting

 

[t-tony]

Started the overhaul on mine and quite a daunting task it’s going to be looking at all the work that is needed and was quite disheartening to be honest but other builds on here are inspiring.

I’ve made a start on the rear. Rear boxes off, the dreaded 8mm cap heads loosened off with no drama probably all the wd40 soaks have helped. Everything loosened off ready for the rear beam drop. Hit a hiccup with the rear hub removal as one of the puller legs broke so that’s going back to Amazon and looking at an alternative. As I packed up for the day I realised I’m going to have to remove the Center of the exhaust to change the hand brake cable. Good excuse to change the prop shaft bearing carrier and gubbo while I’m at it.

Must say the Makita impact wrench has made the job a lot easier. Hub nuts spun off without a sweat.

I think with what I want to do I don’t think I’ll have it back on the road for about three months. But I’ll think I’ll get the rear beam, trailing arms and maybe hubs blasted to reduce some of the prep time.

Shame to hear the puller broke Mark. Good luck with the rebuild mate, please keep us up to date.

Tony.

 

[Sean d]

Well worth doing pal and makes a massive difference, soon look like this

 

[Nodzed]

As I packed up for the day I realised I’m going to have to remove the Center of the exhaust to change the hand brake cable.

No you dont if you can get someone to help you feed it up.

 

[Grumps]

Good stuff Mark. You back full time now?

 

[Althulas]

No you dont if you can get someone to help you feed it up.

Cheers for that I can tie some strong cord to the old ones and pull them through as well to assist with things. I imagine though that the carrier bearing and Gubbo are probably worn after 90,000 miles but no grinding noises on turning the prop shaft. Might save that job when it’s back on its wheels and have the front up on ramps for more ground clearance as it’s a bit tight for me as it is now.

Good stuff Mark. You back full time now?

Yes mate the wife had enough of me being offshore and having to much of a good time To be honest it was having an effect on the marriage from her prospective but you know how oblivious us blokes can be and not many women will trust there other half’s being away for so long. Some much needed R&R weekends away were required

The ///M has suffered from lack of use as you can see from the pics lots of rust on the components, it was no where near that bad on the drive shafts and diff casing a few years ago. Fortunately the chassis is ok some surface rust around the diff hanger area, spot welds intact but still need to take the heat shield off. A few small areas on the floor and the usual sill corners and jacking points to sort out.

 

[t-tony]

String is the way to go with the HB cables. I did a write up on fitting these when I had my Z3 mate.

Tony.

 

[Althulas]

Had some difficulty today. First one the beam would not drop got it to lower enough to take the diff off and the trailing arms. The beam is loose on the passenger side but looks like metal insert has bonded with a rusty pin passengers side is clean like new. Anyone else had this problem?

Second problem can not get the rear hubs to budge. My farmer made lent me his puller with a hydraulic centre price supposed to have 10 ton of force. Think I would be better using one of those plate that you attach to the hub and screw the bolt against the shaft but I think I will take it to a mate who has a workshop to get some heat applied.

 

[Brian H]

Second problem can not get the rear hubs to budge. My farmer made lent me his puller with a hydraulic centre price supposed to have 10 ton of force. Think I would be better using one of those plate that you attach to the hub and screw the bolt against the shaft but I think I will take it to a mate who has a workshop to get some heat applied.

I pressed the hubs out from the rear on a bench press when the trailing arms were removed.

 

[t-tony]

I pressed the hubs out from the rear on a bench press when the trailing arms were removed.

That's the only way I've managed to get them out too Brian.

Tony.

 

[Althulas]

A few days of applying WD40 did the trick beam tap off nicely. All the bits off but still the hubs to separate and carbon box to remove as there’s a little corrosion I want to address and the brake pipe in that area is rather corroded. A few area to apply Deox gel to but will be covering a lot larger area do its stuff but at least all the spot welds are intact and overall rather clean but will give most of the underneath a two pack epoxy paint up. Also the rear beam, diff and trailing arms will get the same treatment. Just those pesky hubs to separate.

 

[t-tony]

It looks very clean under there mate. If you dont have one I would buy a triangular file to clean the splines in the drive flanges before you re fit the driveshafts.

Tony.

 

[Brian H]

Great work......All looks fairly clean under there, When you pull the hubs, please replace the backing plates as you don’t want to go back down this route in a few years time, I can also see two spot welds that would warrant further inspection just to the left of the diff handler bracket if it were my car.

 

[t-tony]

Back plates a no brainer for sure while you're this far.

Tony.

 

[Grumps]

Looks like your digging deep mate. Made all the difference when @Lee and co referbed my rear beam. Well worth doing mate, I've just got the lollipops and lower arms to change on mine and the whole suspension components and all the bushes are then renewed.

 

[Dino D]

Talking of Diff hangers - I thought M cars had dual ear diff mounts?
Or am i confusing it with upgraded ones like Randy Forbes did to add the second ear!

 

[Althulas]

Only reason I’m removing the hubs is to change the back plates. Shame the bearings have to get wrecked to remove the hubs as they are quite and smooth on rotation but will replace with Myle HD or AG. Once the Deox gel has done its stuff I should be able to assess those spot welds better but had a scratch with a screw driver and appear ok but shall see. In case of welding required or am considering seam welding the whole lot was considering this Dirty Pro Tools™ Professional Mig Welder Gasless 100A 100 Amp 230V No Gas with Mask & Welding Weld Wire with Accessories https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OX40FZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BYWZCbGA4Z2T9 but need to do a bit more research first.

 

[mrscalex]

The hubs should come off easily with a variety of tools. I use one of these bearing splitters. You’ll need a 75-100mm version and no smaller as that’s only just big enough. Inserted behind the flange and then 3 (not 2) suitable bolts inserted to push against. I find leaving the handbrake shoes on helps. Tighten the 3 bolts uniformly. The wheel bolts are not long enough. I use flywheel bolts which are the same size/pitch but longer.

However the hub will not budge if the driveshafts are seized in there (common). And in any case I’d say it’s better to remove the driveshaft first. The driveshaft fits into the hub. The hub fits into the bearing. So if you try to pull the hub out with the driveshaft in situ you are trying to break 2 fits.

So I suspect your real issue is the driveshafts not the hub.

And if the driveshafts are anything other than a loose fit you will struggle to whack them out now they are off the car. However there is definitely no guarantees even if you did it on the car. The surest way is to take them to an engineering workshop or garage with a suitable press and heat.

After the driveshafts are out the hubs should come off no problem. With the bearing splitter or with a bit more huff and puff a slide hammer. Or indeed a hub puller.

Hope this helps and I’ve understood the stage you are stuck on correctly. Only recently learned all this stuff myself the hard way.